Day Five: Glenapp to Ballantrae

The pitching of my tent for wild camping was not the best. Not only did I pitch it in a very midgey glade, the space I cleared was not as flat as I thought. In fact, it sloped noticeably in two directions. I ended up needing to reverse my bed in the tent and put it on the other side to normal. Even so, my sleep was rather disturbed, and after a couple of fitful hours I decided to cut my losses and strike camp around 5am.

It was already a bright if overcast morning, and although a little cool it was in no way cold as I packed up my tent.

I made my way along the road, which climbed steadily westwards for a mile or so through trees and stands of rhododendron equal the height of the previous day’s path before turning north along the coast. Here I stopped and had a breakfast of chia seed flapjack, as my water was running too low make porridge.

Where I sat, there was another hillside between me and the sea, and I saw a female red deer (called a hind) running, even galloping, across that hill. The speed at which they can cover the rough terrain of bare hillside is astonishing. She slowed, then stopped for a moment and appeared to be looking across the glen directly at me, then turned southwards again and resumed her run. Slowly at first, but quickly accelerating to the previous gallop, until she disappeared into a stand of trees.

I continued northwards, following the stony track, which crossed moorland and hillside, more or less holding the same altitude. Gradually the land became a little less wild, with more trees, fences, and cattle grids appearing, and the road became less rough until the first farmhouse of the day came in sight, and a tarmac surface began.

Occasionally I stopped to rest along the side of the road when there was a decent grassy verge, as the lack of sleep had left me feeling quite tired, even though the path was very easy.

Eventually, after a couple of miles of gentle rolling glens, the road began a final descent and turned past the last hill to reveal the village of Ballantrae about a mile or two away. The harbour was very clear, and historically was the chief reason for being of the settlement. There had been a fishing fleet here of over a hundred vessels, and official trade up the coast to the Firth of Clyde and across the sea to Ireland was supplemented with a fair amount of smuggling.

As the day progressed, it grew sunnier and hotter, and I was very glad to reach my B&B and deposit my bag by noon, to lighten my steps as I explored the village and found lunch at the local garden centre.

I spent most of my time the rest of the day at the beach, alternating between dozing with my hat over my face, and seeking more complete shade from the sun in the shadow of the harbour wall. Always the path north would attract my attention. In the sun it was easy to see how it will follow the beach for a couple of miles before joining the road for a climb uphill and inland. That section of the path seems to hug the road very close, and I’m hoping it’s safely separated, but that’s a thought for later, as I’m walking it.

I did some laundry by hand at the B&B (some of my clothes being rather ripe) and on chatting with my hostess discovered she is the local church organist. She invited me to join their service in the morning, which will mean setting off rather later than planned, but would be a great start to the day.

The emotions of the day have been quite varied. There is definitely some loneliness creeping in, particularly in the way that there are apparently no other hikers on this trail at the moment. The only walkers I have encountered since the lighthouse at the Mull of Galloway have been locals out for leisure and exercise. That means conversations have been more limited, and the experience doesn’t feel so shared, which is one reason this blog has been so important to me.

On the other hand, we’re now at least 45 miles into this trip, and will cross the half-century on the way to Girvan. My GPS marker is making its way gradually up Scotland’s coast. We’re about 10% of the journey through, and of course speed will increase on the cycle sections.

Thanks for being with me and sharing in this journey. Your comments and support make a huge difference, and I read every one, especially when I stop and tiredly lay down my pack for a rest.

Hope you all have a great day.